Couture Week, so far

As a design student, I've realized that it is near-impossible to take even a day's break from your chosen medium!

I've been throwing myself into fashion-related endeavors, from creative directing costumes for the theatre production I'm currently involved in, to crocheting for a dress at my internship (for a NY fashion show!) Here, I took a little break...only to catch up on the couture shows!

S p r i n g 2 0 1 0 - H a u t e C o u t u r e

Josephus Thimister: Maybe the reason I like his stuff so much is because this is technically a Fall show. Spring collections have a ubiquitous airy feel that is beautiful, but can also be dull. His bloodstained pieces sometimes went overboard, but the above designs capture such subtle sophistication, and read as sinister without being overly dark. Not bad for someone who just took a hiatus!

Dior: Galliano has always been one of my favorites, but I haven't been thrilled with his work lately. He brought us the lingerie trend and still makes beautiful work, sure, but technical perfection isn't everything (and is more the work of his atelier assistants). I'm still waiting for his theatrical genius, which brought us this and this, to reappear in all its glory.

That said, there was some lovely asymmetrical sculptural pieces in this collection, one of his strengths of which I've always been enamored.

Elie Saab: Aside from the usual goddess gowns, these two pieces felt extraordinary to me. Color is expressed so whimsically in the left dress, and the printed textile looks quite labor-intensive. I would love to see someone wear these on the red carpet, but stars will likely opt for safer choices in the collection.

Givenchy: The most diverse collection yet! I love that Ricardo Tisci isn't afraid to play with organic flourishes, tailoring, feathers, and full-out lace jumpers under one aesthetic umbrella.

Alexis Mabille: Ah, but I was disappointed with most of this collection. I liked the last one so much that I think I was expecting more risk-taking and whimsy. These pieces feel safe to me, albeit exhibiting some very pretty fluidity.

Chanel: Much ado about silver is being made in the collection reviews. I for one am just glad he's eliminated black (a subject that will used in future blogging!), and that some of his work is truly gorgeous. Karl Lagerfeld is not undeserving of his fame, but a designer's worth is hardly measured in which metallic shade he currently favors.

All runway photos courtesy of Style.com.

Do I come off as too harsh? It's just that editing and integrity are so important in fashion design, and it baffles me when designers at the top of their game fall short of these principles. Couture is most exquisite and daring form of fashion. The level of economic and artistic responsibility these collections bear is truly enormous, and needs to at the very least be matched by output.

The above work gives me hope, though!

What are your thoughts on the recent collections?



Flora said...

you are not being too harsh. your reaction is properly critical. i completely agree with the alexis mobille stuff. i find it unoriginal and overdone. my favorite piece of the ones that you showed here is the elie saab piece on the right. it's exquisite.

Mag-elicious said...

I checked out your link for your internship and I LOVE those purses you made! The shoes look amazing too, but only for display purposes. LOVE your stuff!

Tee said...

Thanks, Mag-elicious- though I should probably clear up that that's most my boss's work. I've only been assisting her for a few months. Any real compliments should be directed her way. Glad you enjoy it, though! :)

Mag-elicious said...

Well, You are lucky to work with somebody so talented. I am so jealous!

Madeleine said...

Givenchy was definately my favourite. And I found Elie Saab pretty, but kind of just that. The watercolour flower dress was my favourite as well, I just wish he ahd done more with his collection.


Ryan said...

saab earns his two AAs on those two pieces